Rubato takes a contemporary spin on Hong Kong and Cantonese comfort food

BIT OF ROCK IN ITS ROOTS. A RETIRED ROCK STAR CALLS HER CHEF SON BACK FROM LONDON TO TAKE OVER THE TRADITIONAL CHINESE BAKERY. THAT’S BEEN IN THE FAMILY FOR 22 YEARS. THE PULLED THE TRIGGER. OH, NO. THIS ISN’T THE PLOT OF A NEW FAMILY DRAMEDY. TEMPO WAS THE NAME OF MY MOM’S ROCK BAND. THEY DID LIKE ROCK COVERS. IT’S THE TRUE STORY BEHIND RUBATO, THE HONG KONG STYLE CAFE RECENTLY OPENED IN QUINCY BY CHEF LAWRENCE LUI AND HIS WIFE VERY RITZY FOR, I WOULD SAY, NUMBER ONE, BY FAR THE MOST POPULAR DISH IS THE FRIED CHICKEN BALL BARREL IS ESSENTIALLY LIKE A BUTTERY BRIOCHE BUN WITH A LITTLE CRISPY COOKIE TOP. ANY CHINESE BAKERY WILL HAVE IT. WE DECIDED TO KIND OF PUT A LITTLE MODERN TWIST TO IT. SO WE’RE WE’RE STICKING SOME FRIED CHICKEN IN THERE. WE HAVE SOME SLAW AND A HOUSEMADE SAUCE THAT WE HAVE TAKEN OVER A BAKERY THAT’S THRIVED FOR TWO DECADES AND CHANGING THE MENU WAS A RISK. THE FIRST DAY WE’RE LIKE, OKAY, WELL, LET’S HOPE THAT WE CAN SELL A COUPLE OF THINGS AND THEN LET’S REALLY HOPE THAT PEOPLE ARE GOING TO LIKE IT. AND WE ENDED UP HAVING A LINE OF PEOPLE WAITING FOR US TO OPEN UP AND WAITING TO TRY OUR FOOD. AND THE LINES HAVEN’T STOPPED FROM THE MOMENT WE OPEN UNTIL LIKE 2:03 P.M., WE FELL OUT OF FOOD COMPLETELY. WE HAD PEOPLE AT 730 JUST TO GET THE FRIED CHICKEN JUST SO THEY’RE SURE THAT THEY CAN GET IT FOR LUNCHTIME. JOE IF YOU WANT LUNCH, COME EARLY. BUT DON’T OVERLOOK THE DELICIOUS BREAKFAST OPTIONS, INCLUDING THE HONG KONG STYLE LARVA, EGG YOLK, FRENCH TOAST. SO INSIDE IS THIS SALTED EGG YOLK CUSTARD THAT’S VERY RUNNY. SO IF YOU WILL CUT INTO IT, IT’S GOING TO BE SPEWING OUT. AND IT’S KIND OF A SIGNATURE FLAVOR PROFILE FOR HONG KONG FOOD. THERE’S PLENTY OF INNOVATION ON THE MENU, BUT FOR THOSE STILL CRAVING THE CLASSIC EGGS FROM CONTEMPO BAKERY, HIS MUSICAL MOTHER RAN FOR DECADES. CHEF LOUIS IS HAPPY TO OBLIGE THIS FOOD IS WHAT I GREW UP ON AS WELL. WE WANTED TO, YOU KNOW, RESPECT THAT AND BE PART OF THAT COMMUNITY. AND SO IT’S THESE KIND OF FRIED DOUGH STICKS THAT PAIR REALLY WELL WITH CANDY AND HOT SOY LOOK THAT’S LIKE COULDN’T QUINTESSENTIAL KIND OF CHINESE BREAKFAST FOOD. SO WE WANT TO MAKE SURE WE HAVE THAT AVAILABLE FOR FOLKS THAT RESPECT FOR THE PAST EXTEND INTO THE WALL ART AS WELL WHERE CONTEMPO THE NAME OF THE ORIGINAL CHINESE BAKERY STILL SHINES. SO SHE NAMED THE BAKERY AFTER HER MAN. WHEN MY WIFE AND I DECIDED TO TAKE OVER, REALLY THINKING LIKE, HOW DO WE PAY HOMAGE TO THE OLD FACE? AND KIND OF MY MOM’S LEGACY, BUT ALSO, YOU KNOW, SOMETHING NEW. SO ROBOTO IS A MUSICAL TERM FOR CHANGE OF TEMPO, WHICH IS WHAT WE WANTED. WHILE CHEF LOUIS MAY HAVE GROWN UP EATING HOMEMADE ASIAN CUISINE, BUT PROFESSIONALLY, HIS SWEET SPOT WAS REALLY…