Hidden Croatia: where to stay and what to do off the beaten track | Croatia

Despite all the restrictions and uncertainty caused by the pandemic, Croatia’s tourism industry made a decent show of bouncing back last year – to about two-thirds of its 2019 levels. And the perennial hotspots of Dubrovnik, Hvar, Brač and Korčula have been as popular as ever. But while millions of people spent last year beating a well-trodden path, there are still regions, islands and beaches where the tourist footprint is lighter, the crowds fewer and the atmosphere more mellow. If you’re looking for an escape and a new discovery this year – but not the crowds – you’ll find it in these places.

Tribunj

There’s a pleasingly laid-back feel to this small town on the Adriatic’s Šibenik Riviera, north-east of Split. The new D-Marin marina hasn’t really affected the slow pace of life in this part of northern Dalmatia, but has added a pleasant hum to the harbour-front cafes. At the mouth of the harbour is Tribunj’s tiny old town, on an islet connected to the coast by a stone bridge.

At one tumultuous point in its history, the town’s population crammed into its fortified castle to protect itself from Ottoman attacks. Ringed by moored boats, the compact islet is home to no fewer than nine bars and restaurants, and is the place to be on a balmy summer evening. A waterside table at the convivial Konoba Dida Toni is a great place to savour a platter of grilled fish or slow-cooked octopus.

The town’s indented coastline harbours several pebbly and rocky beaches, including pine-backed Zamalin just the other side of the stubby Saint Nicholas peninsula. Saint Nicholas church, the town’s emblem, sits on top of the hill, and beyond a bigger peninsula further west is beautifully wild but sheltered Sovlje beach.

East of the marina is Tribunj’s main beach, Bristak, with sun loungers and jetskis for hire. Those who prefer more strenuous activities can rent a bike (details from the tourist office) and tackle one of the cycling trails that lead through olive groves and up towards spectacular views of the Adriatic. The hiking is just as good, with paths leading to an old Turkish fort and hillside chapels.

With the Adriatic surrounding the town, it’s not surprising that Tribunj likes to celebrate its seafood. The summer season kicks off in mid-June, with a giant Fishermen’s Night feast, a traditional Croatian festival. In late July and late August there are more seafood festivals, as well as a rather comical annual donkey race on the first Sunday in August.

Where to stay
Plavi Val (from €40 a night for two) has five apartments overlooking Sovlje beach. They each come with a double bedroom, a sofa bed and a terrace, and there’s a restaurant of the same name on the ground floor.

Papuk nature park

The forested peaks of Papuk nature park in Slavonia – the rectangular eastern region of Croatia bordered by Hungary, Serbia and Bosnia – were once an island in the ancient Pannonian Sea, and now sit in the middle of the vast Pannonian plain, which stretches from the Alps to the Carpathians.

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